There are no ambient lights aside from our headlights and the screen of my Treo. Indiana is wide open flat fields as far as I can see. I want to ask the driver to pull over and let me inhale, frolic, and maybe yell a little bit. This is the most wonderfully empty place I have been in a long time, more striking in its way than the palm covered hills of San Diego, or the lost desert city of Phoenix. I can hear nothing but the car and me breathing together.